You have probably seen ads on TV and in print media extolling the miraculous effects of anti-aging products. Many of these claim to rejuvenate and renew your skin to make it look years younger and glowing like that of the movie star promoting the product. Some products even boast of producing the same effect that can be had from expensive skin treatments.
How True are These Claims? Can the Fountain of Youth be Truly Found in a Beauty Jar?
The answer is an easy no. A lot of these claims are exaggerated marketing ploys designed to make you part with your money.
But let’s not generalize. Some ingredients found in beauty products do help to keep the skin soft and moisturized. Others also have wrinkle-reducing effects. Still others help to remove pimples, acne, discolorations and other skin flaws. These are pretty much what cosmetic products can do. Bear in mind that if they can equal the effect of medical skin procedures, they then would be classified as drugs and not as cosmetic products. So beware of miraculous claims. If they seem to be “too good to be true,” they very probably aren’t true.
What are the ingredients that do work to improve skin quality? We have mentioned retinol-based or retinoid products a few times in the previous chapters. Retinol is indeed well-established as an effective skin-care ingredient. In the next section below, we’ll see what it does. We’ll also discuss other active ingredients that make up the creams,lotions and gels that you put on your skin. This will hopefully help you to choose better products for your skin.
So the next time you’re out shopping for beauty and skin-care products, read their labels and look out for these ingredients. This will help you avoid wasting your hard-earned cash on products that don’t work, or that don’t measure up to their claims.
Common Ingredients in Anti-aging Products
Retinol or retinoids - Retinol is one of the few ingredients in skin-care products that have been scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles and other imperfections. It has been found effective even among elderly users (those aged 70 and beyond). Topical retinoid in skin creams, gels or lotions is a vitamin-A derivative. It is not very expensive, and it can be bought over-the-counter. Stronger forms of retinoid are Retin-A and Renova, which can also be found in many beauty creams. A known side-effect of retinol use is skin irritation, especially with exposure to sunlight. It is thus best to apply retinol-based products at night. For daytime use, it should be combined with something that provides sun protection, such as a sunscreen or a moisturizer that has SPF.
Peptides – These are linked amino acids or small protein molecules that also reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They haven’t been found to be as effective as retinoids, but they are being studied and developed by dermatologists as the latest “breakthrough” in skin-care science. Peptides work by stimulating the production of new collagen, the substance the gives the skin its suppleness and elasticity. They are also called pentapeptides or nanopeptides. Argireline is another peptide variant that has started to be used in many anti-aging products.
Niacinamide – This is a derivative of Vitamin B3 that helps to lighten dark spots resulting from skin aging, sun damage or acne scars. It works by preventing melanin, a skin pigment responsible for skin color, to rise to the surface. Niacinamide is also known have moisturizing and acne-fighting properties.
Hyaluronic Acid – This is a “humectant,” meaning something that attracts water. It moisturizes and hydrates the skin. Some dermatologists claim that it also stimulates the skin to produce more collagen.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids – Called AHAs for short, these are exfoliators that allow dead skin cells to be removed from the skin surface. They can be found in many skin cleansers and facial washes. They work by dissolving the bond that holds together the cells on the skin surface. They also encourage quicker “skin turnover,” or the appearance of new skin underneath to replace the older layer on top. Skin turnover is a natural process that generally slows down as the person grows older. When the skin is exfoliated, other skin-care products can work better because they can now be absorbed more effectively and quickly into the skin. Choose skin products that have up to 8 percent AHAs. In higher concentrations, AHAs can cause the skin to become more vulnerable to sun damage.
L-ascorbic acid and other vitamin-C derivatives. When stable, vitamin C is great for the skin. It works as an antioxidant. It also stimulates collagen formation and increases skin elasticity. However, vitamin C is often volatile and unstable when exposed to air. When it becomes oxidized, it rapidly loses its potency to improve skin quality. L-ascorbic acid is the stable form of vitamin C in beauty products.
Avobenzone – This is the active ingredient in sunscreen that blocks UVA radiation from the sun. UVA damages collagen and elastin found deep below the skin surface.
Benzophenone-3 and oxybenzone – These are ingredients that block UBV sunlight. UVB damages the skin surface and causes sunburn and skin dryness.
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide – These are natural elements (not produced inside inside a laboratory) that work as sunblock. They are very effective and non-skin-irritating, but some people do not like the thick and chalky texture that is typical of products containing these ingredients.
Antioxidants – These anti-aging chemicals aren’t only found in skin-friendly foods. They too can be rubbed or applied on the skin like any other topical cream. Antioxidants work by encouraging cell growth, and by preventing and repairing skin damage. They also destroy “free radicals”—unstable substances that damage
the skin, which are by-products of smoke, pollution and sunlight. Examples of antioxidants are vitamins C and E, CoQ10, and extracts from green tea, pomegranate and coffee berry.